The mechanism and effect of hexapeptide-9

2018-08-18

The hexapeptide-9, a cosmetic peptide 

Introduction of skin aging

Skin aging is the obvious external manifestation of a natural process occurring in tissues and organs throughout the body. Intrinsic processes (genetics, cellular metabolism and senescence, hormones) present with a gradually advancing loss of elasticity, fine lines and a slowed turnover of regenerating cells. Cumulatively, these present as a recognized pattern of structural and physiologic changes that manifest as aged skin. In particular, the changes occurring within the extracellular matrix (ECM) have profound effects on cell to cell and cell to matrix signaling and cross talk. One of the main mechanisms responsible for intrinsic and extrinsic aging of the cells is the accumulation of damaged proteins in the cells and ECM. These proteins are modified by various posttranslational mechanisms common with aging such as oxidation, glycation, and conjugation with products from lipid peroxidation. In young healthy skin, the proteolytic systems can effectively prevent the accumulation of damaged proteins both intracellularly and within the ECM, whereas in older, damaged skin the systems become inefficient and "clogged" with these protein fragments.

The mechanism and effect of hexapeptide-9

Hexapeptide-9, also known as collagen peptide III, is a novel small molecule synthetic hexapeptide that exists in the structure of human collagen IV and XVII (key basement membrane collagens). Due to such structure, collagen peptide III exhibits a comprehensive and remarkable anti-wrinkle repair effect.

The mechanism of Hexapeptide-9 is mainly in three aspects: (1) Increase the synthesis of dermal collagen; (2) Promote the formation and reinforcement of DEJ (epidermal dermal connective tissue); (3) Promote the differentiation and maturation of epidermal cells. As a result, the effect of Collaxyl (hexapeptide-9) can be used in cosmetics as an anti-wrinkle ingredient with excellent effect. Specifically, hexapeptide-9 can effectively relieve and inhibit fine lines in the forehead, and around the eye area. The contraction and movement of the surrounding muscles help the muscles to relax, and restore smooth lines of the skin's elastic tissue. In addition, it can reduce the strength of muscle contraction, relax muscles, reduce the occurrence of dynamic lines and eliminate fine lines; also, it can reorganize collagen elasticity effectively, increase the activity of elastin, relax facial lines, smoothen wrinkles and improve relaxation. Therefore, when applied to the skin, the anti-wrinkle and repairing effect is remarkable against loose skin, and can make the skin more elastic and firm.

Finally, just like most peptides, hexapeptide-9 must be stored in a cool, dark and clean place to ensure a shelf life of at least 12 months. For long-term storage, it is recommended to store at -20 °C, and the shelf life can be extended to at least 24 months.

References:

1. Curzon S S, Garcia J M, Konopelski J P. Total synthesis of nominal cyclocinamide B and investigation into the identity of the cyclocinamides [J]. Tetrahedron letters, 2015, 56(23): 2991-2994.

2. Widgerow A D, Jiang L I, Calame A. A single‐center clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a tripeptide/hexapeptide antiaging regimen [J]. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 2018.

3. Gordon T, Hansen P, Morgan B, et al. Peptide azoles: A new class of biologically-active dipeptide mmetics [J]. Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters, 1993, 3(5): 915-920.

4. Oshimura E, Sakamoto K. Amino Acids, Peptides, and Proteins [J]. Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications, 2017: 285.

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